Haa Hoentay

Background

Haa Hoentay is a buckwheat-dough dumpling from Bhutan’s Haa Valley, cherished at autumn and winter festivals and home gatherings. The dough traditionally centers on buckwheat flour, a hardy staple of the region’s high-altitude farms, and it encloses a savory blend that often features mountain greens and local cheese. In home kitchens, cooks shape small, crescent-like dumplings and steam them until tender. This version keeps the spirit of the valley classic by pairing tender greens like spinach with crumbly farmer's cheese, supported by aromatic onion, garlic, and ginger. The result is wholesome comfort—nutty from the buckwheat flour and bright from the herb-and-chili-laced filling—served with a simple, lively ezay-style dip.

Ingredients

Dough

• 2 cups buckwheat flour
• 1 cup all-purpose flour (helps with elasticity, optional but recommended)
• 1 tsp salt
• 3/4–1 cup warm water (as needed for a firm, pliable dough)
• 1 tbsp vegetable oil

Filling

• 6 packed cups chopped spinach (well-drained after washing)
• 1 1/2 cups crumbled farmer's cheese
• 1/2 cup finely diced onion
• 2 cloves minced garlic
• 1 tsp grated ginger
• 1/2 cup thinly sliced scallions
• 1 tsp red chili flakes (to taste)
• 1/2 tsp black pepper
• 1 tsp salt (or to taste)
• 1 tbsp vegetable oil
• 1 tbsp toasted sesame seeds (plus more for serving)

Ezay-Style Dipping Sauce (Optional)

• 1 small grated tomato
• 1 small minced garlic clove
• 1–2 tsp red chili flakes
• Pinch of salt
• 2–3 tbsp warm water (to loosen)
• 1 tsp vegetable oil
• 1 tsp crushed sesame seeds

Preparation

Make the dough

1. In a bowl, whisk the buckwheat flour, all-purpose flour, and salt. Add the vegetable oil and most of the warm water, mixing until a firm, cohesive dough forms; add more warm water if dry.
2. Knead until smooth, 3–5 minutes (3–5 minutes). Cover and rest the dough for at least 20 minutes to relax the gluten (20 minutes).

Make the filling

1. Warm the vegetable oil in a skillet. Add the onion, then the garlic and ginger; cook until fragrant, 2–3 minutes (2–3 minutes).
2. Add the chopped spinach; sauté just until wilted and most moisture evaporates, about 3–4 minutes (3–4 minutes). Cool slightly.
3. In a bowl, combine the cooled spinach, farmer's cheese, scallions, red chili flakes, black pepper, salt, and sesame seeds. Mix until evenly distributed.

Shape the dumplings

1. Divide the dough into walnut-size pieces. Roll each into a thin round, about 3 inches across. Keep covered so they don’t dry out.
2. Place 1–2 tablespoons filling in the center. Fold into a half-moon, press out air, and crimp the edge firmly.

Steam

1. Line a steamer with parchment. Arrange dumplings with space between them. Steam over steady heat until the wrappers look slightly translucent and supple, 10–12 minutes (10–12 minutes).
2. Let them stand briefly to set before serving, about 2 minutes (2 minutes).

Make the ezay-style dipping sauce

1. Stir the grated tomato, minced garlic, red chili flakes, and a pinch of salt. Add warm water until spoonable, then finish with vegetable oil and crushed sesame seeds.

Serving and Tips

• Brush the hot dumplings lightly with a touch of vegetable oil and sprinkle extra sesame seeds for aroma.
• Texture cues: the wrapper should be tender yet slightly springy from the mix of buckwheat flour and all-purpose flour; adjust with a teaspoon of warm water if the dough feels too stiff, or dust with a little buckwheat flour if sticky.
• Heat level: tune the red chili flakes to your liking; you can also add a pinch more black pepper for warmth.
• Make-ahead: shaped dumplings can be chilled on a tray and steamed straight from cold with a small time add-on, 1–2 minutes more (1–2 minutes).